Two Wheels, Endless Adventure: Part 1/3
Writing and photographs by Andrew Boughner.
Part of a Series – Two Wheels, Endless Adventure: Building My Ideal Bikepacking Rig:
Part 1/3: Choosing the Right Bike and Components
Bike Packing, ultra bike pack racing, bike touring, adventuring on two wheels, having fun with friends, however you like to classify it, continues to be an amazing and ever-evolving discipline that requires some thoughtful considerations when it comes to gear selection. As I prepare for a summer of adventure - through Europe, on our local trails in our backyard playground, and whatever other detours might come - building the right set up has been a challenging, sometimes tedious, but incredibly rewarding experience.
In this blogpost, I'll walk you through the decisions behind each choice, for selecting the right frame and components, the thinking that shaped the decisions, and lessons learned along the way.
In Part 2 and 3 of the series, I’ll capture the decisions associated to the lighting and power management system and bag and packing configuration. If you're in the process of designing your dream set up, I hope this post gives you some helpful ideas, shortcuts, and inspiration.
As always, chatting with the friendly (and insanely knowledgeable!) team at Cycling Elements is a great way to stay up to date on the latest gear and find options that truly fit your needs.
The Methodology: What the heck did I consider while building out my ideal rig?
When piecing together the ultimate bikepacking setup it can quickly feel overwhelming; what to focus on, what to prioritize, and where to make compromises. For me, every decision was shaped by two key considerations:
- Fit For Purpose: I wanted a bike that could handle the full spectrum of bikepacking terrain, from singletrack and technical descents to cruise-y gravel and long stretches of pavement. Versatility was non-negotiable.
- Balancing Race Performance and Long-Term Comfort: In Ontario and steps away from Cycling Elements we’re lucky to have a great lineup of events like the BT700, Log Drivers waltz, the Mono 24hr, and several other fun routes! With some of these races on my radar, I wanted a setup that felt fast and responsive (especially on climbs - Ontario is hilly!), but still offered enough comfort for casual Mono Brewing Co x Cycling Elements group rides and multi-day adventures with friends.
Decisions and Trade-offs That Shaped The Build
Before diving into specifics of my own build, I wanted to share a high-level overview of the key decisions I considered when evaluating bike and component options. This is intended to be a starting point and a snapshot of some of the trade-offs and a helpful starting point to help guide your decisions as you think through your own setup.
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Frame Geometry
Frame geometry is a tricky one (in my humble opinion) and one that R&D teams spend a lot of dollars on. It determines how your bike handles and feels, particularly when loaded down for bikepacking. Some geometries are more snappy and responsive, while others are more relaxed and endurance-oriented, making for a more comfortable descent, but less responsive when chasing local segments. Cycling Elements carries a variety of frame geometries and brands, and I’d definitely recommend heading over to try out a few different bikes to get a feel for how geometry impacts the ride. -
Frame Material – Carbon vs. Steel vs. Aluminum
Each material has trade-offs in weight, comfort, durability, and cost. Carbon is light and responsive but comes with a higher price tag. Steel is durable (which makes it popular for some bikepacking rigs) and very comfortable, but heavier which will be especially noticeable on climbs. Aluminum sits somewhere in the middle, offering good value for an entry-level frame. -
Rim Material – Aluminum vs. Carbon Rims
Carbon rims are lighter and absorb shock better in rougher conditions. Aluminum rims are slightly heavier but more affordable than their carbon counterparts. -
Drivetrain – 1x or 2x
A 1x drivetrain is simpler, lighter, and has fewer moving parts—ideal for rugged terrain and easier maintenance on the trail. A 2x drivetrain offers a wider gear range, which can be helpful for steep climbs with a heavy load but can add complexity and potential for more maintenance. -
Suspension – Fully Rigid vs. Front Suspension
A fully rigid setup is lighter, simpler, and easier to maintain, great for graded gravel roads and smoother trails. Front suspension adds comfort and control on rougher terrain or technical descents, but it increases weight and maintenance needs. -
Cockpit – Drop Bars vs. Flat Bars
Drop bars offer multiple hand positions and better aerodynamics, ideal for long gravel routes and pavement. Flat bars provide more control and leverage on technical terrain and are often preferred for mountain-style bikepacking routes. -
Tire Clearance Versatility
Frames with generous tire clearance let you run wider tires for comfort and traction or narrower ones for speed. Versatility here is key if you plan to tackle a mix of surfaces or have multiple use cases for your rig. -
Seat Setup – Dropper Post vs. No Dropper Post
A dropper post gives better control and confidence on steep descents and technical sections, especially if your rig is loaded. That said, if you plan on using a saddle bag (instead of panniers or a tailfin set up), a dropper might not be compatible. Skipping the dropper saves weight and simplifies the bike but does remove that added functionality. -
Shifting System – Electronic vs. Mechanical
Electronic shifting is smooth, precise, and low-effort. You can even fine-tune alignment with your phone, which is a wild and wonderful tech advancement. However, it does require charging. Mechanical shifting on the other hand doesn’t rely on battery life and can be relatively easily maintained trailside. -
Braking System – Hydraulic vs. Mechanical
Hydraulic disc brakes offer strong stopping power and consistent performance in all conditions, but are harder to service in the field and require more specialized tools. Mechanical disc brakes are easier to repair on the go, though they generally require more hand strength and offer less smooth modulation.
My Thinking Behind the Considerations and Why the Kona Ouroboros Supreme Was a Clear Winner
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Frame Geometry
I loved the feel of the Kona Ouroboros. At first I thought the geometry might feel a bit less responsive than what I was hoping for as it’s definitely more mountain-bike-leaning geometry compared to other gravel options. That said, the fork angle offers enhanced handling on descents (which was important for me), and the overall geometry still feels really responsive on flat sections or when pushing pace on pavement and pristine gravel. Having now tested the bike across all conditions (road rides, singletrack, mountain bike trails, gravel, mud, hike-a-bike) I’ve really come to love the way it handles and its versatility. -
Frame Material
The Ouroboros comes in both aluminum and carbon options. Since I’m aspiring to race on this bike, the decision to go carbon was driven by weight savings. Although steel is an option, I didn’t consider it due to the substantial weight difference. -
Rim Material
After doing some longer rides like the BC Epic 1000, my arse has definitely taken a few hits. Comfort and weight savings pushed me toward carbon rims. The Zipp 101 XPLR wheels are built for gravel and offer a noticeable bump in comfort, especially on rough terrain, plus some great weight savings for climbing. -
Drivetrain
This one's definitely ~personal~ for me. On a bikepacking trip from Vancouver, Canada to Tijuana, Mexico, I ran into repeated issues with my front derailleur. Then during the BC Epic Race, it gave out at 200 km into an 1,100 km ride, leaving me on a 1x9 setup for the rest. Since then, I've loved the simplicity of a 1x. With the 10-52T SRAM XO Eagle Transmission and a SRAM Force 40T chainring on the front, I haven't found myself needing more range [1]. That said, if I was building a more race-focused gravel rig (not for bikepacking), and with the simplicity that Electronic shifting options provide, I would definitely consider a 2x. -
Suspension
I made a trade-off here. The front suspension adds weight, but it gives me a lot more comfort and confidence, especially on steep descents, which I tend to find a bit spooky! The ability to lock it out on smoother terrain is also a nice add-on. I also wanted the bike to handle some of the local MTB trails (like the ones at the Mono Centre), and the RockShocks Rudy Ultimate XPLR with 40mm travel definitely hits the mark. -
Cockpit
As with the drivetrain, this ones definitely still very ~personal~. I wanted aerodynamic positioning and lots of hand positions, so drop bars for me were definitely the calling. The added flare [2] also provides nice stability on descents and enough room for any front roll bags. I also added raised aero bars [3], for those long roads that seem to never end. The Fred Bar allows you to really raise up those aero bars to make for an insanely ergonomic and comfortable position. If you're coming from an MTB background, or prefer a wider arm position, a flat bar with bar ends or auxiliary grips might be more comfortable for longer days. -
Tire Clearance
I wanted the option to run chunky MTB tires for comfort and control on rougher routes, so I was looking for at least 50mm of clearance, which the Ouroboros has. -
Seat Setup
I’ll be swapping between a dropper post and rigid post. For bikepacking, I’ll run a rigid seat post to accommodate a saddle bag [4]. For local rides, I’ll switch to a dropper post as I really love the added functionality, especially on singletrack. -
Shifting System
Once you try electronic shifting, it’s hard to go back. I love the smoothness and precision. Sure, for bikepacking, battery life is a concern, but I manage that with a dynamo hub [5] and some spare batteries. The SRAM XO Eagle Transmission is super burly and has a built-in reset function if things get banged up on the trail. -
Braking System
Hydraulic brakes were a must for me. Long descents with mechanical brakes used to leave my hands cramping. Hydraulic brakes give me confidence that I can stop quickly and smoothly, which is especially important when I’m tired or loaded up.
At the end of the day, the Kona Ouroboros ended up being the right bike for me. It struck the balance I was looking for between comfort, capability, and versatility, especially for the kind of bikepacking and mixed surface riding I love to do. In future posts, I’ll dive deeper into the bag and packing configuration, and the lighting and power management systems. I hope this breakdown helps you start thinking about your own dream rig – and when you’re ready to start piecing it together, I highly recommend chatting to one of the experts at Cycling Elements. The friendly staff are a great sounding board and can help you explore and build the set up the works best for your riding goals.
We’d love to hear your thoughts! If you have any questions, feedback, or ideas for future blog posts, feel free to drop a comment and reach out!
[1] Note: In this context, “needing more range” refers to having a wider spread of gear options — both lower gears for climbing steep terrain with a loaded bike, and higher gears for maintaining speed on fast flats or descents.
[2] Note: Flare on a handlebar refers to the outward angle of the drops (the lower part of drop bars) relative to the top portion of the handlebar. In other words, instead of the drops pointing straight down, they splay outward, away from the bike, creating a wider stance at the bottom.
[3] Note: Aerobars are handlebar extensions designed to allow a rider to adopt a more aerodynamic, forward-leaning position by resting their forearms on padded supports and gripping the extensions with their hands.
[4] Note: Details on bags and Bike-packing gear will be provided in future blog posts
[5] Note: Information on decisions related to Dyno Hub (and what the heck a dyno hub is) will be captured in future blog posts